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If you've had a break-in nearby, a dark side return that makes you nervous getting to the bins, or you're just fed up leaving a porch light on all night for no reason, a motion-activated LED flood light solves all three. I fit these regularly across Tonbridge, Tunbridge Wells, Sevenoaks and Crowborough, and the questions I get asked are always the same ones — so here they are, answered properly.
A motion sensor flood light pairs an LED floodlight with a PIR (passive infrared) sensor. The PIR detects the heat given off by a moving body — a person, a car, sometimes next door's cat — and switches the light on automatically. Most units let you adjust three things: sensitivity, how long the light stays on once triggered, and the detection range. Get those three settings right and the light works with you instead of going off every time a fox walks past.
Two reasons, and cost is the smaller one. LEDs use a fraction of the electricity of the old 500W halogen floods, so running costs drop straight away. But the bigger reason is availability — halogen security lights are being phased out under UK energy regulations, so if yours has failed, you're not really choosing LED, you're being pushed into it. Worth knowing before you ask me to "just replace it like-for-like."
Legally, if you're replacing an existing outdoor light fitting on the same circuit, you can do it yourself. In practice, most people don't, because outdoor electrics carry real risk if done wrong — damp ingress, incorrect cable rating, no RCD protection. If you're adding a new circuit rather than swapping a fitting, that's different again (see below). Either way, I'd always get it checked if you're not confident, especially anything involving a new cable run outside.
It depends what you're doing, not what you're fitting. Swapping one outdoor light fitting for another on the existing circuit isn't notifiable. Installing a brand new circuit to feed the light — a new cable run from the consumer unit — is notifiable work under Part P, because it's a new circuit in an outdoor location. I handle the notification as part of the job, so you don't need to think about it, but it's worth knowing the distinction before you get a quote, because it affects the price.
Legally, if you're replacing an existing outdoor light fitting on the same circuit, you can do it yourself. In practice, most people don't, because outdoor electrics carry real risk if done wrong — damp ingress, incorrect cable rating, no RCD protection. If you're adding a new circuit rather than swapping a fitting, that's different again (see below). Either way, I'd always get it checked if you're not confident, especially anything involving a new cable run outside.
Height matters more than most people expect. Mount too low and the sensor gets triggered by anything that moves at ground level — cats, blown leaves, your own bins. Mount too high and you lose sensitivity to people walking normally. I generally recommend a minimum of 2.5 metres, angled slightly downward, covering the approach to doors, gates and any blind side returns rather than the whole garden. One well-placed light beats two badly placed ones.
This is the single most common call-out I get for these lights, and it's almost always one of three things: the sensitivity is set too high, the detection angle is catching a road or footpath you don't need covered, or the unit's been knocked out of position. Most PIR units have a sensitivity dial and a separate lux (daylight) setting — if yours is coming on in broad daylight, that's the lux setting, not the motion sensor, and it's a five-minute fix. If you're getting constant false triggers and you've already tried adjusting it, the sensor itself may be on its way out — read my troubleshooting guide for outdoor PIR sensors for the full fault-finding checklist.
Anything mounted outside and exposed to the weather needs a minimum IP44 rating, and I'd generally push for IP65 on anything facing driving rain — most decent flood lights meet this as standard, but it's worth checking before you buy one online rather than through a trade supplier. Outdoor lighting circuits also need RCD protection under BS 7671, regardless of the fitting's IP rating.
A straight swap of an existing fitting on an existing circuit is the cheapest option. Adding a new circuit — new cable, new protective device at the consumer unit, and the Part P notification — costs more, but it's the right call if you're lighting an area that's never had power before, like a side return or a detached garage. I'll always tell you honestly which one your job actually needs rather than upselling you into a new circuit you don't need.
Yes — sudden bright light is one of the most effective low-cost deterrents, because it removes the cover of darkness an intruder relies on and signals the property is being monitored.
Often yes, if it's a straightforward like-for-like swap on the same circuit. If you want to add a separate sensor to feed an existing light, that's usually possible too — I'd need to see the existing setup to confirm.
No — standard mains-wired flood lights need power to operate. If backup lighting matters to you (care homes and commercial premises often need this), a battery-backed or emergency-rated fitting is a separate conversation.
Typically 30,000–50,000 hours for the LED itself, with the sensor rated similarly. In practice, sensors are more likely to fail from water ingress or a knock than from age.
Thinking about security lighting for your home or business? Whether it's a straightforward light swap or a new circuit into a side return, garage or shed, I'll tell you straight which category your job falls into and what it'll cost before you commit to anything.
Call me on 01892 531 728, WhatsApp 07775 561 363, or request a quote online — I cover Tonbridge, Tunbridge Wells, Sevenoaks and Crowborough.
or Email me: karen@brightsparkelectrian.co.uk
Phil, from Bright Sparks arrived promptly, was really polite, cracked on with his job and gave us a really good brief on what he'd done and why it was needed which was then followed up with a thorough report. Bright Sparks have been absolutely superb and not only are they saved in my phone but also I'd recommend them to friends and family. Thanks guys. P.s. you were up front and transparent about costs too.
Just to say a big thank you for the work that your electrician carried out at my mothers house. He was very professional and a clean worker and the finished job was a complete success. It is very comforting to know that when a tradesperson attends the property of a elderly customer that they feel safe and happy. Once again, Thanks Keith
Terry was very helpful, and everything has been fixed.
Very pleased with the excellent job from the Bright Spark team. Really informative and helpful advice from Karen and Richard the electrician was friendly, professional and a pleasure to deal with. Will use again. Thank you very much for a job well done.Update: just used Bright Spark again (Aug 25) and Joe did an excellent job and Karen's communication was excellent. Thank you very much.
Karen and her team of "Bright Sparks" are wonderful to deal with and needless to say know their negatives from their positives with just a dash of earth . I would recommend their services to anybody.
